Everyday Pasta Read online

  Corn Agnolotti

  ¼ cup cornmeal

  1 recipe Fresh Pasta

  2 (14.75-ounce) cans creamed corn, drained well

  ½ cup mascarpone cheese (4 ounces)

  ¼ cup soft fresh goat cheese (2 ounces)

  ½ teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

  ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  1 egg, for egg wash

  Tarragon Butter

  ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

  ⅓ cup corn kernels (fresh or canned)

  1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

  ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest

  ¼ teaspoon salt

  ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

  Sprinkle a baking sheet with some of the cornmeal and set aside. Cut the ball of pasta dough into 8 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a rectangle about the size of a deck of cards. Cover the dough with plastic wrap while you are working. Roll a rectangle of dough through the widest setting of a pasta machine 3 times, until it is smooth. Continue rolling it through, decreasing the setting each time until you have reached the thinnest setting. Sprinkle the sheet lightly with cornmeal, gently fold it, and set it on the cornmeal-lined baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap. Continue rolling out the rest of the pasta until all 8 pieces have been rolled out.

  In a medium bowl, mix together the drained creamed corn, mascarpone cheese, goat cheese, tarragon, and pepper. Stir to combine and set aside. In a small bowl, beat the egg with 1 tablespoon water.

  To form the agnolotti, place a sheet of pasta on a dry work surface. Using a pastry brush, brush the entire sheet of fresh pasta with the egg wash. Place rounded teaspoons (about 1 ounce) of the corn filling on the pasta sheet, about 2 inches apart. Carefully place another sheet of pasta over the mounds, smoothing out any air pockets and firmly sealing the pasta around the filling. Using a scalloped pasta cutter (or a sharp knife), cut the pasta into small squares. Transfer the agnolotti to the cornmeal-lined baking sheet. Continue forming the remaining agnolotti.

  To serve, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until they float, about 2 minutes. While the pasta cooks, gently mix together all the tarragon butter ingredients in a medium serving bowl. Drain the pasta, using a large mesh strainer or slotted spoon, and transfer them to the serving bowl with the tarragon butter. Toss to coat. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and serve immediately.

  6 to 8 servings

  When Todd and I are craving the flavors of Thanksgiving—or when we’re spending the holiday alone and I’m not in the mood to cook a whole turkey just for the two of us—I make these holiday-worthy ravioli. They look and taste festive, and there are never any leftovers!

  Turkey Ravioli

  1 pound ground turkey, preferably dark meat

  ½ cup whole-berry cranberry sauce

  ½ cup freshly grated Romano cheese

  ¼ cup bread crumbs

  ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

  2 eggs

  1 teaspoon salt

  1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  80 small square wonton wrappers

  Gravy

  ¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter

  4 shallots, chopped

  ¼ cup all-purpose flour

  3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

  ½ cup heavy cream

  ½ cup grated Romano cheese, plus more for serving

  ¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

  1 teaspoon salt

  1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  To make the ravioli, stir together the turkey, cranberry sauce, cheese, bread crumbs, parsley, eggs, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. Place 10 wonton wrappers on a work surface. Brush lightly with water using a pastry brush. Place 1 tablespoon of the turkey mixture on each of the wonton wrappers. Top each with another wonton wrapper. Push out any air bubbles, then press the edges tightly to seal. Repeat with the remaining filling and wrappers, forming 10 ravioli at a time.

  To make the gravy, heat the butter in a medium, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the flour and stir until cooked, about 1 minute. Slowly add the chicken broth, stirring quickly to avoid lumps, and simmer for 3 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the cream, cheese, parsley, salt, and pepper.

  Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the ravioli and cook until tender but still firm to the bite and the filling is cooked, about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Use a skimmer to remove half the ravioli and transfer them to individual plates or a serving platter. Drizzle them with some of the gravy to keep them from sticking together. Drain the remaining ravioli and drizzle with the remaining gravy. Sprinkle with cheese and serve immediately.

  Dried Pasta Versus Fresh

  Fresh pastas can now be found in the refrigerated cases of many supermarkets, and you may also be able to purchase fresh pasta and pasta sheets at your local Italian market or gourmet shop. Don’t assume that fresh pasta is necessarily preferable to dried, though; for many dishes the smooth, firm surface and chewy texture of dried pasta is the better choice. Reach for the fresh pasta when you are serving a more delicate sauce, such as mild, creamy preparations or one based on butter, which complements its softer texture.

  Both types of pasta are made from the same ingredients: flour, salt, and water. However, dried pastas are made with hard wheat flour, called semolina, while fresh pasta generally uses a softer flour that is lower in protein and makes a softer noodle. Some fresh pastas also include egg, which contributes both richness and a warm yellow color.

  Because dried semolina pasta doesn’t absorb sauce the way more porous fresh pastas do, they work best with tomato- or oil-based sauces and should be cooked together with the sauce briefly to meld their flavors. Fresh pasta should be cooked quickly (monitor it carefully as it can overcook in a matter of seconds) and then tossed with the sauce in a serving bowl; don’t cook the two together or the dish will become gummy.

  4 breakfast servings or 6 appetizer or dessert servings

  My grandfather would occasionally make this for us as a special breakfast treat when I was young; now I serve it as an unusual first course for a fancy dinner or even, occasionally, for dessert. It’s very unexpected—and very delicious. Serve it in small portions, as it is quite rich.

  2 cups heavy cream

  Zest of 1 lemon

  Zest of 1 orange

  2 tablespoons honey

  Pinch of kosher salt

  ½ recipe of Fresh Pasta, cut into fettuccine, or 12 ounces purchased fresh pasta or dried fettuccine (see Note)

  1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

  ¼ cup chopped toasted hazelnuts (see note in recipe for Rotelli with Walnut Sauce)

  Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.

  In a large, heavy skillet, heat the cream, zests, honey, and salt over medium heat, being careful not to let it boil. Cook at a bare simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes.

  Meanwhile, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the pasta well, then add it and the lemon juice to the skillet with the cream sauce. Toss to combine.

  Divide the pasta among 4 to 6 shallow bowls and sprinkle with the hazelnuts. Serve immediately.

  Note

  If using dried pasta, substitute 1 pound dried, cooked in a large pot of salted boiling water until just al dente. Add to the cream sauce as above and cook gently in the sauce for another 3 minutes, or until the pasta has absorbed most of the sauce.

  8:

  basic recipes

  This section provides you with all the fundamentals you need to put a great pasta meal on the table: essential sauces like marinara and béchamel as well as my favorite flavored oils and vinaigrettes I reach for time and again. If you want to tr
y your hand at making your own fresh pasta, this is where you’ll find the recipe. You’ll also find some great pointers on choosing an Italian wine to complement your meal and a few menu ideas to help you round out everything. Enjoy!

  makes 1½ pounds

  For a richer yet more delicate flavor, nothing beats freshly made pasta. It takes a bit of time—and a pasta-rolling machine—but the results are worth the effort.

  It is certainly possible to buy good-quality fresh pasta, either in sheets or cut into noodles. But like making your own bread, making fresh pasta is a very satisfying way to spend a Sunday afternoon. I especially enjoy preparing fresh pasta at the holidays or when I have family over and everyone can get involved.

  3 cups all-purpose flour

  4 large eggs

  1 tablespoon kosher salt

  1 tablespoon olive oil

  Place the flour in the bowl of a food processor. In a small bowl, lightly beat the eggs. Add the salt and olive oil to the eggs and stir to combine. Add the egg mixture to the food processor with the flour and pulse to combine the ingredients, scraping down the sides once or twice. Continue, with the machine running, until the liquid is evenly distributed, about 1 minute. The dough should stick together if pinched between your fingers and be cornmeal yellow in color. Some of the dough will be clumping together, but it will not form a ball.

  Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Gather the dough into a ball and knead gently until the dough is smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes before rolling and shaping as desired.

  makes about 2 quarts

  Every cook should have a good marinara sauce in his or her repertoire, and I think this one is just about perfect. Though not as quick to throw together as some of the other tomato sauces I depend on (see this recipe for a really quick, basic sugo), the time you invest in making it will be repaid with a full-flavored, robust sauce that can be used in dozens of different ways. The sauce freezes very well, so why not make a double batch to freeze (after cooling completely) in 2-cup portions? Frozen sauce may be stored for up to 3 months.

  ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

  2 small onions, finely chopped

  2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

  2 celery stalks, finely chopped

  2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

  ½ teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste

  ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

  2 (28-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes

  2 dried bay leaves

  In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, carrots, and ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Sauté until all the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bay leaves, and simmer uncovered over low heat until the sauce thickens, about 1 hour. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Season the sauce with more salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate. Rewarm over medium heat before using.)

  makes about 4 cups

  This basic white sauce is what gives many pasta dishes, like lasagna, a rich creamy texture. It’s not hard to make and you’ll find lots of uses for it.

  5 tablespoons unsalted butter

  ½ cup all-purpose flour

  4 cups warm whole milk

  ½ teaspoon salt

  ¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

  Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

  In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until smooth, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the warm milk, whisking constantly, until the sauce is thick, smooth, and creamy, about 10 minutes (do not allow the béchamel sauce to boil). Remove from the heat and stir in the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. (The sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate.)

  makes about 5 cups

  2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

  6 ounces sliced pancetta, coarsely chopped

  2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes

  2 garlic cloves, minced

  5 cups marinara sauce (store-bought or homemade)

  Heat the olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and sauté until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes and garlic and sauté until tender, about 1 minute. Add the marinara sauce and bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat and let cool until ready to use.

  Chili Oil

  makes ½ cup

  This simple recipe is not only great for bread-dipping, but can also be used to liven up the flavors in other dishes—as your cooking oil, or in salad dressing, or as a pasta topping, or just drizzled over grilled fish or meat.

  ½ cup olive oil

  1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

  In a small, heavy saucepan, heat the oil and red pepper flakes over low heat, stirring occasionally, until a thermometer inserted into the oil registers 180°F, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature, about 2 hours. Transfer the oil and pepper flakes to a 4-ounce bottle or other small container and seal the lid. Refrigerate up to 1 month.

  makes about ½ cup

  ½ cup olive oil

  2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

  1 tablespoon fresh orange juice or tangerine juice

  Place all of the ingredients in a tight-lidded jar and shake to combine. Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

  makes ½ cup

  This is a robust dressing that is good with strongly flavored greens like escarole or spinach. It’s also very good on grilled foods and vegetables like potatoes, or as a dressing for chicken and pasta salad. Because the garlic thickens the dressing and gives it body, less oil is needed than for a conventional vinaigrette.

  1 whole head of garlic

  2 tablespoons olive oil

  Salt

  2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

  ¼ cup balsamic vinegar

  ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

  Pinch of sugar

  ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  Preheat the oven to 400°F.

  Cut the head of garlic in half cross-wise and place it cut side up on a sheet of foil. Drizzle it with olive oil and sprinkle it with salt. Fold the foil up and around the halves of garlic, making sure they stay flat. Seal the foil into an airtight package. Roast until golden and soft, about 60 minutes. Let the garlic cool slightly in the foil.

  Squeeze the garlic cloves out of their skins into a blender. Add the parsley and balsamic vinegar and pulse together until blended. Drizzle the extra-virgin olive oil into the blender while the machine is running. Add the sugar, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper and blend until incorporated.

  makes 1½ cups

  This is the classic salad dressing, one I rely on all the time not only for salads but as a marinade for meats, to drizzle on crostini, and more.

  ½ cup red wine vinegar

  3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

  2 teaspoons honey

  1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

  ½ teaspoon salt

  ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  Combine the vinegar, lemon juice, and honey in a blender. With the motor running, gradually add the oil. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper, adding more to taste if needed.

  makes 12

  I love these cheesy, salty, crispy wafers not only because they are so yummy, but because they are so versatile. I put them in bread baskets, add them to soups, and serve them topped with scoops of salad.

  1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

  1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place tablespoon-size mounds of Parmesan on the paper at least 2 inches apart. Gently flatten each mound of cheese with the bottom of a glass or the back of a spoon and sprinkle with black pepper. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the cheese has spread out to a 1- to 1½-inch round and is bubbling and g
olden around the edges. Place the baking sheet on a wire rack to cool the frico completely.

  Italian Wine

  A Crash Course by Christian Navarro

  The late, great winemaker Giacomo Conterno once said, “Wine nourishes the soul.” To me there is nothing more satisfying than an excellent plate of pasta matched to perfection with a simple glass of wine. Together they spark an explosion of flavors far beyond what each can provide on its own. Of course, nothing pairs better with an Italian meal than an Italian wine, although for many wine buyers a stroll down the Italian aisle of their wine store can be confusing. Once you’ve learned a bit about them, though, you’ll find there is an exciting gamut of Italian wines beyond Chianti and Pinot Grigio.

  The history of wine in Italy spans more than twenty-eight centuries, back to the eighth century B.C., when the ancient Greeks settled in southern Italy. (In fact the Greeks were so impressed with the Italian climate they named the region Oenotria, land of the trained vine.) I can think of few places where wine is more seamlessly woven into the fabric of everyday life than in Italy; it is as much a part of life there as is pasta or tomatoes. And while Italy produces some of the world’s finest (and most costly) wines, it is hardly a pleasure that is reserved for the elite. In a country where the vintner may also be the pasta maker and the cook, Italian wine is best enjoyed at the lunch and dinner table. Just as wine enhances the food, the food enhances the wine, creating a marriage of flavors for all the senses.

  The styles and flavors of Italian wines vary greatly from north in the snowy Alps to south at the sunny shores of the Mediterranean. Much like the food, the wines reflect the landscape of the people, the weather, and the geographic location. Northern regions like Piedmont, Lombardy, and Alto Adige produce wines that tend to be more reserved, refined, and perfumed. Toward the center of Italy in Tuscany and Umbria the wines gain in exuberance and sophistication. Down in the warmest parts of Italy like Apulia, Sicily, and Sardinia, the wines tend to be extremely flavorful, spicy, and almost sunbaked in style.