Everyday Pasta Read online

  Copyright © 2007 by Giada De Laurentiis

  Photographs © 2007 by Victoria Pearson

  All rights reserved.

  Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.

  www.crownpublishing.com

  www.clarksonpotter.com

  Clarkson N. Potter is a trademark and Potter and colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available upon request.

  eISBN: 978-0-307-95505-0

  v3.1

  To my grandfather Dino De Laurentiis, for

  preserving our heritage and passing down his

  passion for great food and, more importantly,

  the love of pasta!

  Also by GIADA DE LAURENTIIS

  Everyday Italian, Giada’s Family Dinners

  Acknowledgments

  It takes lots of collaboration to put a cookbook together, so I want to take this opportunity to thank all the people who contributed to Everyday Pasta:

  Pam Krauss, for helping me put my thoughts on paper—and for making the process fun. Marysarah Quinn, for all her patience and good design sense. Jon Rosen, for helping me make my dreams a reality. Eric Greenspan—so much more than my lawyer; I couldn’t have a better person looking out for me. Suzanne Gluck, the best literary agent around. Vicki Pearson, for bringing my food to life. Rori Trovato, for all of her patience and creativity. Kate Martindale, for giving my food a beautiful backdrop. Katrina Norwood, without whom I couldn’t get the recipes just right. Sandra Tripicchio Corcoran, for ALL her hard work; I’m not sure I could do all I do without her! Karen Panoch, for making me glow. Christian Navarro, for teaching all of us about wine. My family, for keeping me honest. My husband, Todd, without whom none of this would matter. Food Network, for all their support. And Jenny Frost, Lauren Shakely, Philip Patrick, Tina Constable, Kate Tyler, Sydney Webber, Amy Boorstein, Mark McCauslin, Joan Denman, Kathleen Fleury, and everyone else at Clarkson Potter for their support and guidance!

  Contents

  Introduction

  Pasta Go-Withs

  Antipasti and Appetizers

  Baked Caprese Salad

  Goat Cheese Toasts

  Bruschetta with Frisée, Prosciutto, and Mozzarella

  Toasted Ciabatta with Balsamic Syrup

  Crostini with Anchovy Butter and Cheese

  Parmesan Popovers

  Fried Ravioli

  Zucchini and Carrot a Scapece

  Fried Zucchini

  Prosciutto-Wrapped Vegetables with Parmesan

  Something on the Side

  Cornbread Panzanella

  Arugula Salad with Fried Gorgonzola

  Spinach Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette

  Insalata Mista with Basil Dressing

  Hearty Winter Salad with Sherry Vinaigrette

  Greens with Gorgonzola Dressing

  Asparagus with Vin Santo Vinaigrette

  Anytime Vegetable Salad

  Sautéed Spinach with Red Onion

  Pasta for All Seasons

  Soups and Pasta Salads

  Italian White Bean, Pancetta, and Tortellini Soup

  Pasta e Ceci

  Italian Vegetable Soup

  Tuscan White Bean and Garlic Soup

  Ribollita

  Tuna, Green Bean, and Orzo Salad

  Fusilli Salad with Seared Shrimp and Parsley Sauce

  Neapolitan Calamari and Shrimp Salad

  Mediterranean Salad

  Antipasto Salad

  Italian Chicken Salad in Lettuce Cups

  Hearty Pastas

  Baked Penne with Roasted Vegetables

  Venetian “Mac and Cheese”

  Crab and Ricotta Manicotti

  Rigatoni with Sausage, Peppers, and Onions

  Roman-Style Fettuccine with Chicken

  Farfalle with Creamy Mushroom Gorgonzola Sauce

  Pappardelle with Lamb Stew

  Cinnamon-Scented Ricotta Ravioli with Beef Ragù

  Prosciutto Ravioli

  Turkey and Artichoke Stuffed Shells

  Gnocchi with Thyme Butter Sauce

  Ricotta Gnudi in Parmesan Broth

  Tagliatelle with Short Rib Ragù

  Penne with Swordfish and Eggplant

  Baked Pastina Casserole

  Baked Gnocchi

  On the Lighter Side

  Linguine with Butter, Pecorino, Arugula, and Black Pepper

  Saffron Orzo with Shrimp

  Penne with Spicy Tomato Sauce

  Spaghetti with Sautéed Onions and Marjoram

  Eggplant Mezzaluna Ravioli

  Orecchiette with Mixed Greens and Goat Cheese

  Capellini Piedmontese

  Spaghetti alla Pirata

  Spaghetti with Red and Yellow Peppers

  Swordfish and Spaghetti with Citrus Pesto

  Conghilie with Clams, Mussels, and Broccoli

  Rotini with Salmon and Roasted Garlic

  Rigatoni with Red Pepper, Almonds, and Bread Crumbs

  Angel Hair Pasta with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Goat Cheese

  Quick and Easy Weeknight Pastas

  Chicken in Lemon Cream with Penne

  Little Stars with Butter and Parmesan

  Breakfast Scramble with Orzo, Pancetta, and Asparagus

  Creamy Orzo

  Farfalle with Broccoli

  Wagon Wheels with Artichoke Pesto

  Spinach Fettuccine with a Quick Sugo or Salsa

  Spicy Angel Hair Pasta

  Rotelli with Walnut Sauce

  Cheesy Baked Tortellini

  Cinnamon Pancetta Carbonara

  Rigatoni with Sausage, Artichokes, and Asparagus

  Linguine with Turkey Meatballs and Quick Sauce

  Ditalini with Mushrooms and Artichokes

  Mini Penne with Parmesan Chicken

  Farfalle with Spicy Sausage and Kale

  Penne with Beef and Arugula

  Capellini with Tomato and Peas

  Pasta for Special Occasions

  Spicy Baked Macaroni

  Tagliatelle and Duck Ragù

  Spaghetti with Eggplant, Butternut Squash, and Shrimp

  Crab Salad Napoleons with Fresh Pasta

  Shrimp Lasagna Rolls with Creamy Marinara

  Pork and Lemon Orzotto

  Spaghetti with Pinot Grigio and Seafood

  Butternut Squash Tortelloni with Cranberry Walnut Sauce

  Pappardelle with Seafood Cream Sauce

  Champagne Risotto

  Linguine and Lobster Fra Diavolo

  Corn Agnolotti with Tarragon Butter

  Turkey and Cranberry Ravioli

  Sweet Fresh Fettuccine

  Pasta Basics

  Basic Recipes

  Fresh Pasta

  Basic Marinara Sauce

  Béchamel Sauce

  Arrabbiata Sauce

  Chili Oil

  Citrus Olive Oil

  Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette

  Red Wine Vinaigrette

  Parmesan Frico

  Menus

  Credits

  Index

  Introduction

  The origins of pasta are widely disputed, despite the many attempts by food historians to assign it a definitive birthplace.

  We now know that pasta did not arrive in Italy courtesy of Marco Polo, who was said to have first encountered it in China; the ancient Romans prepared a dough of water and flour called lagane that later came to be referred to as lasagna, and many others have laid claim to the invention of pasta. But I’ve decided to leave the history to scholars and instead focus on pasta as a staple of Italian cultureand in my kitchen.

  Pas
ta has always played a central role in my family, starting in the late 1800s with my great-grandfather Rosario Pasquale Aurelio De Laurentiis, who was a pasta maker in Naples, Italy.

  In the early 1900s he enlisted his children, one of them being my grandfather Dino De Laurentiis, to sell the pasta door-to-door as a means of supporting the family. Dino left home when he was seventeen to make movies, but he continued to express his love of pasta and Italian cuisine when he launched the restaurant/marketplace concept called DDL Foodshow, which opened in both New York City and Beverly Hills in the 1980s. When I wasn’t happily feasting on the quick pasta dishes my mother was whipping up, I was hanging out at the restaurant with my grandfather and his amazing Italian chefs, watching closely as they made fresh spaghetti and raviolis. These early experiences in the kitchens of DDL Foodshow and helping my mother prepare our family meals are what encouraged me to pursue a culinary career, and continue the traditions of my grandfather.

  I have always considered pasta one of the great pleasures of the table; it’s healthy and delicious; it can be light and delicate or incredibly hearty; it’s readily available; and it’s generally very easy to prepare—everything you want in a meal! So when the low-carb craze hit the American food culture with a vengeance, it was disheartening to see pasta singled out as one of the ultimate dietary evils. The truth is, pasta itself contains virtually no fat, and, eaten in moderation, it is quite low in calories. The real culprit is the supersized portions we’ve all come to regard as normal. Any food consumed in large quantities is unhealthy, regardless of its carbohydrate content. A slice of bread with butter won’t make you fat; half a loaf will.

  Luckily, America has recognized that a carb-free diet is unrealistic in so many ways and that a healthy portion of pasta—about two to four ounces—can be tasty and filling. Since most of our schedules give us little free time to do much of anything, much less cook, pasta offers an easy solution when we need a quick meal that is also good for us and, most importantly, tastes amazing.

  Pasta (which means “paste” in Italian) is simply semolina (durum wheat flour) combined with water or milk to create a dough that can be transformed into literally hundreds of sizes, shapes, colors, and flavors.

  I grew up eating penne, spaghetti, rigatoni, pastina, and orecchiette, and over the years I have expanded the list of favorites to include fettuccine, fusilli, farfalle, orzo, and wheat pasta, among others.

  In fresh pasta, the liquid is replaced by eggs for a richer, more delicate flavor that is a real treat, especially with cream-based sauces like a béchamel. I have provided a very easy recipe for those who would like to try their hands at making fresh pasta, something I urge you to do if you have some time (and a pasta rolling machine!). However, even if you don’t make your own, it is now easy to find fresh pasta at gourmet specialty stores and even the supermarket, so do add it to your repertoire.

  With so many varieties of pasta cuts and flavors available, it isn’t difficult to be creative when deciding upon a dish. Pasta provides a perfect neutral canvas on which to combine flavors and ingredients. It can be warming and comforting when the days are cool, and light and fresh tasting when the temperatures rise. It’s a perfect showcase for fresh seasonal vegetables, and an inexpensive way to stretch a little bit of a costly ingredient like seafood or exotic mushrooms to feed a group. Many pasta dishes are all-in-one meals that, at most, need a quick, easy vegetable side dish or perhaps a simple appetizer to round them out (see Pasta Go-Withs for some of my favorite sides, salads, and bread accompaniments for pasta meals). Best of all, nearly all the recipes in this book can be assembled in the time it takes to bring water to a boil and cook the pasta, and many of those that are a bit more involved can be made ahead and reheated or served at room temperature. When you have a well-stocked pantry of ingredients such as olive oil, tomato paste, whole canned tomatoes, anchovies, parsley, basil, garlic, lemons, and olives, you’re already halfway to a great pasta meal.

  The other half has to do with preparing your pasta properly and maximizing its full texture and flavor. I always tell people that there’s nothing to be afraid of when cooking pasta. It’s practically failsafe if you follow a few simple rules. First and foremost, pasta should always be cooked in a large pot with plenty of generously salted, boiling water to allow the noodles to swim freely, releasing their starches and cooking evenly. Your pasta should be al dente or “to the tooth,” which means that when you take a bite of your cooked pasta, it should still offer slight resistance. Remember: residual heat will continue to cook the pasta even after it’s drained, whether it is transferred into a hot sauce or left to cool at room temperature. Don’t ever rinse your pasta unless you’re making a pasta salad; the starches add flavor and help the sauce adhere to the noodles. And finally, always reserve a half cup or so of the cooking water before you drain the pasta to add to the sauce. The starch in the water will add flavor and help the sauce stick to the noodles. It’s my secret to any good pasta sauce.

  I wanted to write this book as a way of sharing with you the central role pasta has played in my family—as it has in the lives of most Italian families. When we gather around the table, there is always a pasta dish in the center.

  When I open my pantry, there’s always pasta, and when I think about Italian food, I see pasta. If you already love pasta, I hope these recipes will make you love it more; and if you’re just embarking on the pasta journey, I think you’ll quickly see what all the fuss is about.

  Giada’s top

  10 Pasta-Cooking Tips

  1. Always cook pasta in a big-enough pot; one that is tall and deep rather than wide and shallow is best for long strands.

  2. Use a generous amount of water; the pasta should be able to swim freely in the pot.

  3. Salt the water with a good handful of kosher or sea salt; this is really your only chance to season the pasta itself (and not just the sauce), and salt brings out the flavor of any pasta.

  4. Never rinse cooked pasta; the starch on the surface contributes flavor and helps the sauce adhere. The only exception to this rule is pasta for cold salads, which will be too sticky and gummy when the noodles cool unless some of the surface starch is rinsed off.

  5. Always reserve a quarter cup or so of the pasta cooking water to add to the sauce. This both loosens the sauce so it can coat the pasta and contributes starch that helps it cling better.

  6. Don’t add olive oil to the pasta cooking water. It is an old wives’ tale that this will keep it from sticking as it cooks; pasta clumps together when it is not cooked in sufficient water. Save your olive oil for salad dressing.

  7. Don’t coat drained pasta with olive oil to keep it from sticking; this will prevent the sauce from clinging to the pasta, causing it to end up in a pool at the bottom of your serving dish.

  8. Cook the pasta just to al dente and no longer; start testing it a minute or two before the time indicated on the package to make sure it doesn’t overcook. The pasta should still offer definite resistance when you bite it but not be pasty white or hard inside.

  9. Remember that your pasta will continue to cook when you add it to the hot sauce and toss them together, so don’t leave it in the pan any longer than necessary to marry the sauce and pasta together and warm them both through.

  10. Lastly, keep portion sizes reasonable! A cup of cooked pasta is plenty for a first course or appetizer serving.

  Matching Pasta Shapes to Sauce:

  A Basic Primer

  Although the flavor of pasta doesn’t vary much, whether it’s a short cut like farfalle or a long strand like linguine, the way these shapes interact with sauce makes a big difference in the finished dish. Here’s an overview of several popular shapes and which sauces they are best suited to.

  Capellini and angel-hair pasta: Because the noodles are long and thin, these pastas go best with a light sauce that won’t weigh down the pasta. Try it with olive oil, garlic, and lemon, or a simple tomato-basil sauce.

  Spaghetti: The most famous c
ut of pasta, it pairs nicely with simple sauces like tomato, arrabbiata, or puttanesca or with seafood and herbs.

  Linguine: These long, flat pasta strands stand up to sturdier sauces. Typical matches would be a pesto, tomato, or mushroom sauce, or one with flavorful ingredients like shellfish.

  Fettuccine: Literally these are “little ribbons,” similar to linguine but thicker and wider. It is a suitable match for many sauces, including those that are cream-based or made with meat.

  Farfalle: These pretty butterfly shapes taste best with simple olive oil- or tomato-based sauces that may incorporate ingredients such as peppers, chicken, or arugula. They are also great for a pasta salad because the shape is fun and bite-sized.

  Rotelle: Shaped like wagon wheels, rotelle are popular with kids. I serve them with an artichoke pesto, but they can also be dressed with bolognese or a hearty tomato sauce with sun-dried tomatoes, olives, and capers.

  Fusilli bucati: Similar to fusilli, which look like corkscrews, these noodles look more like bedsprings. They are a good choice for thick and hearty sauces because all the “goodness” gets trapped inside the spiral rather than just coating the exterior.

  Elbows: A classic for mac and cheese, this basic shape is also perfect with sour cream–or mayonnaise-based sauces for pasta salads.

  Conchiglie (shells): These come in various sizes, from very large ones meant for stuffing, to very small ones, which are called conchigliette. Shells are good with meat sauces, and the small ones work in any dish where you’d use elbow macaroni.

  Rigatoni: This wide, ridged, tube-shaped pasta has holes on either end that are large enough to capture pieces of meat or vegetables in a sauce. In addition, this kind of pasta is perfect for baked dishes made with sauce and cheese.

  Penne: These small tubes may be smooth or ridged (rigate). Penne is best used in soups, pasta salads, and with thicker sauces and casseroles, as the ingredients and sauces can penetrate the inside of the pasta. Penne rigate is ideal for meat, vegetable, or butter-and-oil-based sauces because the ridges hold the sauce.

  1:

  antipasti and appetizers

  Most pasta meals, because they are generally relaxed even last-minute affairs, don’t seem to need a formal, plated first course. When I serve pasta to a group, or even just my family, I am much more likely to set out a few antipasti for people to nibble on than to prepare a separate appetizer course to serve at the table. Generally I make just one or two items, like a bruschetta or crostini, or perhaps some pickled vegetables, and arrange them on a board with sliced meats and cheese from the deli and pantry items like olives, marinated artichokes, pepperoncini, and roasted peppers. That way people can stave off hunger pangs and keep me company while I work in the kitchen, but no one gets too full and I don’t have to clear the table for the main event. Any of the recipes in this chapter would be welcome additions to an antipasto platter and equally nice to serve with a bowl of soup to make it a bit more of a meal.